Domingo 13 -
Sábado 19 Octubre Sunday morning we
had a leisurely breakfast of rocky mountain hash. This is but a
scramble of chopped potato, onion, sausage and egg. Ours also had
nopal, which we have come to enjoy in many foods. Served on top of
warmed corn tortillas and topped off to our individual liking with
salsa picante. No sooner did we
have dishes finished when the telephone rang. It was Frank asking us
if we would go on a caminata (hike) with them. It would only take two hours,
and they felt that Dan needed a break from the computer where he had been helping a friend over a LogMeIn remote
connection. After hemming and hawing for a few moments – this was
of course after previously advising them that Dan could not afford
the time until after 15 October – we scurried about changing clothes,
rounding up cats to bring inside, locking doors, prepping our backpack, etc.
Carmen had understood that Shattucks were picking us up, so she was
straightening the house a bit – only to find Dan heading out the back
door with the car keys. Oh, WE are driving! Off we happily go on this
gorgeous day, and find them walking along their road near the autopista, with a backpack.
After driving on
the highway about 15 minutes to the east of Córdoba, we arrived at the
exit where the free route to Veracruz takes off. We followed a
convoluted route onto increasingly narrow roads thru the dusty
village of San Rafael, still roughly paved for the most part. Ania kept us informed of all the sights along the way. Ex-haciendas, fruit trees, birds we might see – soooooooo many interesting things to tell! Next we turned
onto a dirt road, and finally onto a narrow grass lane. This was our
car's first experience with an overgrown grass lane. We
expected but a short distance on the grass path, but it seemed a fair
distance to us paved road travelers. Eventually, the other two got
out and walked ahead to be certain that no large rocks had gotten into the track since they had last been there. It was difficult to travel in spots
where the wheels had worn down into the surface, and we had to
cant off to the side to avoid high-centering the car. Finally we got
to a point but a few paces from what would have been the end of the road, providing an ample parking
spot with ample turn around space, to find there were two trees down
across the road. Dan's heart fell, as he imagined having to back out
over the rough and twisting route when we headed back home. Luckily
we found a nearby slight widening of the path with a bit less
undergrowth, and were able to turn the car around, backing over the
bushes between a rock and a tree to face more or less back the way we
came. Hopefully no one else would come down the track to block it
later...!
Now, with feet on
the ground, at one of Shattuck's favorite hikes – off we go to
explore the
Caldera del Diablo (Devil's Caldron)! Dan had
insisted on bringing his Komperdell “trekking pole,” just knowing
that at least one of us would find it useful. Okay, Carmen
grudgingly took it out of the car, and Dan hefted our pack with water
& snacks onto his back. Carmen soon discovered soon that she is no
longer quite so stable on her feet. She had been expecting a
well-worn
sendero (trail), but after but a couple steps, she was very thankful
to have the help of the staff. The ground was in fact a bit
slippery from rains a few days before, plus many large rocks of many
shapes and sizes littered the way up the slope. Seems that this site
was over 1000 years old, where a small volcano had erupted,. It left
an oval (when viewed from the air, as in Google Earth) open cone and
an interior
caldera (crater) about 960 feet across its longest
width.
From the base, it
looks like just another hill covered in forest greenery, and the
inner caldera itself is accessible by a rocky trail up thru jungle
liberally sprinkled with coffee bushes. Looking down from near the
top it is revealed as a really deep hole with very steep interior
walls, and a basin-like floor way below, now heavily forested. After
getting near the top of the outside of the cone, there are two breaks
in the rim of the vent, allowing access to a well worn rough path
around a ledge maybe 100 feet or so down from the upper rim. Step
off the ledge, and there is a steep tree and brush covered slop to
the bottom of the big round hole in ground. In some places the ledge
is large enough to set up a camp, especially in areas undercut back
into the cliff-like vertical sides above, The only real problem here
was that the path in places was only about a foot wide, or slick with
a thin covering of slippery algae-capped mud. Not a “walk in the
park,” by any means.
The views of rock
formations were fantastic, rising high up the inner cone walls high
above us! Carmen, true to recent form, kept losing her balance, so
we kept one person near to stabilize her when she wavered.
Unfortunately she mostly tips to her right – the down side of the
trail. Dan slipped twice on the slick underfoot, and by the next
morning he could hardly put weight on his left leg where a ligament
in his left knee was complaining. We were too late in the day to see
the parrots and parakeets, but heard a few. Saw lots of butterflies. The crazy thing about this cone, is that all the rocks are gray, the color of aged limestone, and the seepage from above has formed stalagmites on the walls and flowstone-like formations in the undercuts (almost caves) inboard of the trail we followed. The rocks that littered the trail also were of this same material, and showed the clear effects of water erosion. So just how can a volcano be made of sedimentary rock? Is this an example of carbonatite, which we understand is pretty rare?
Ania found many
plants for both herself and Carmen. At one point, we three enjoyed
some banana muffins Carmen had packed, while Ania was scrabbling up a
rock to cut and pull off some favored plants. She always has in her
backpack a plastic bag and a knife for such gatherings, plus Frank's
hands for carrying more. She is careful to only take epiphytes which
have been blown off their perches by storms, or off of trees which
have fallen to the forest floor. Ania also packed up a large plastic
bag with loose soil, of the type some of her plants like.The walk
around usually takes them a half hour. Took us about three times
that long. What can we say? We walked slower, with so much to see. Our amigos had never seen a snake here, but we did! A large thick black one, moving quickly away from us out of the arroyo trail on the way back down to the car! We believe this 4+ foot specimen to have been a culebra indigo (Drymarchon corais, probably the orizabensis variety that is native here).
As we drove back home, roads here and there were closed or very busy,
so they guided us through areas in the city where we had not been
before, and interesting tour of Cordoba! At one point we drove by
the huge cementerio with it's big panteon (mausoleum),
with a fantastic multiple block-long cut flower market outside the walls, close by
to where families come to adorn the graves of the departed loved
ones. When we dropped Frank & Ania off, we were invited for lunch, but we
really did not have time, thinking Dan's friend would be waiting for him to come back online.
Carmen got all the
new plant stems into pots. Thankfully we had purchased another huge
bag of soil and some new pots last week. We now need more pots!
There is simply no more space outside in the ground, without digging
up other plants or getting rid of a least some of our tiny plot of
grass in the front yard. Dan tied the orchids that came off of
fallen trees during out hike, onto branches in our bougainvilleas. As it turned out,
the friend Dan has been helping never came back on line after we
returned home, though Dan tried to raise him. Bummer – we
might as well have stayed at Ania and Frank's for dinner. While
watching tv this evening, our cable went out, so we went to bed and
watched some of the maratón of the last season of Breaking
Bad, which Dan had recorded on the DVR last weekend. Good day.
One evening our
Gardi cat told us excitedly, that there was something in the bag on
the floor which was holding the miter box that goes back for exchange. He was right! We took a medium sized brown saltamontes
(grasshopper) outside for him to play with. We believe it is the
same one he was with in the hallway the next day, so he must have
been the one to bring it in in the first place. He is so good about
telling us, with a meow, when he has found something that does not
belong in our house. It was a pretty quiet week
here. Four days with no rain. We saw two green birds flying at a
distance. Probably parrots? Had to put another butterfly outside.
Work has begun in the lot across the street. With the ditches dug around three sides for footings, next huge piles of sand and rocks were delivered this week. Then on each of the next days,
eight bags of cement plus eight five gallon buckets
of water were delivered first thing in the mornings. A single man has been mixing cement by hand, bucketing it
to the trenches, and then rolling/placing huge rocks into the mix, creating a mampostería (rubble-concrete) foundation for the lot's perimeter walls. Hot
heavy work for 8-10 hour days. Don't know how his body held
up to it! Dan walked across the street and offered that the fellow
come to our house if he needed anything.
Dan stopped in at the MasKotas store, and was surprised to find two little bags of Temptation
treats, to which our two cats have a long-standing addiction. We have been trying to obtain this product for over a year, and all the pet stores professed never to have heard of it, despite the company's email message to us that it was available in our area. Unfortunately, our cats' favorite flavor is chicken, and
Mexico no longer makes that flavor. But, second best is salmon,
and that is manufactured here by Whiskas. The government has just put thru new
tax laws, so the prices we pay for some things will go up. This includes a 16%
IVA (value-added tax) on pet foods and sweets. Cat
food was already more expensive here than in the US. In the store, Dan saw a puppy that he would love to have brought home. No more dogs
for us though. They are a problem when we travel. Be nice if they
could be trained to litter boxes like cats. The cats thought they had died and gone to heaven when they received their treats that evening.
The little man that comes
to the back gate with potted plants that cost 20 pesos each
(US$1.50) has been here three times this week. His plants are always
small, but well rooted, and we don't mind buying from his little enterprise--better than those that come by just looking for a handout. One day we bought a pinkish peach color
thanksgiving cactus. It looks nice on our fireplace mantel. We also
bought a dark pepper plant, so he told us. Its leaves are dark green
with dark purple on the back. Can't seem to ID it one the internet, so we wonder what it will turn into. At
present its leaves are a bit rolled up and look long and pointed.. We
potted it with our pepper plant that a neighbor gave us – the one loaded with the hot piquin peppers. Carmen again has
everything planted. She dug out all the local soil that we had
planted our corn in, which was in the large Earthbox planter we had used for
tomatoes in the US. Then she put regular potting soil into the planter
for four new plants which came from the Home depot discount table.
Thursday morning we
woke up at six am, so we got up half an hour later, showered,
breakfasted, and drove into downtown Córdoba. We had once upon a time
found an agro-chemicals store there, and we since have not found it again ( the yellow pages have been useless in this regard).
The traffic is horrid in this area, with only overfull on-street parking. Our thought was
that if we got there early enough, the streets would not yet be full.
At 7:45am the streets were only three quarters full! We drove up and
down the streets 'til we did indeed find the missing shop. Plus,
there was parking across from it! We purchased the weed killer we
needed, plus some sulfur for getting rid of those nasty little
chiggers.
Lots more stops during the day. Being that we were close to the east side of
town at this time, we went to the Soriana hiper-mart. This store has
the best oatmeal. This may seem a small item to visit a store for,
however, we do like good oatmeal for breakfast! We started down the
aisle for our oatmeal and soon Carmen admitted to Dan that they had
best take a cart. The veggies looked especially good this day, also
this is the only store that seems to carry good canned sweet corn. The
fresh baked goods were very attractive, And there were some pies
with real pie crust! Crusted pies seem to be rare down here. We selected a
pineapple one. It was good, but the surprise for us was that the filling must have been
pineapple juice thickened with cornstarch. It's saving factor was
that it was not over-sweet. Since we do not drive the distance to
this store often, we strolled all the aisles. Yes, our cart slowly
filled. We found some more ant-proof plastic containers at a good
price, along with small milks and juices that we give to folks who
ring our door bell or call at the gate for anything we can give them.
Several come by each week.
At Home Depot we exchanged the miter box which was missing a part. Of course
we always check out the plants, and often buy one. This time we bought four. Two from the discount
shelf, plus another large bag of soil. Onwards to IMSS
where we stood in line for ten minutes and never saw the line of over
a dozen folks ahead of us move. We will go back another day.
Walmart for various items and we spied a whole roasted adobo
chicken, plus for ten pesos more we got 500g ranch fried potatoes.
They were delicious and the potatoes made three meals. Next the RG
store looking for a vacuum cleaner. Finally got back to downtown
Fortín, for a fill-up at the Pemex station and a stop at the supermarket for their local apples. Home again before 1:30pm. Kitties met us at the door, they like us to be at home with them!.