19 August 2013

Manifestación

(Domingo 11- Sábado 17 Agosto)  Sunday we awoke to the songs (?) of guinea fowl. We assume they are living in the forest, free, a block away, because they seem to wander a fair distance. Yesterday breakfast was steak and eggs, pastry, yogurt and fruit to build up energy lost friday. This morn we indulged in our regular oatmeal with banana and yogurt, plus a half cup of either tea or coffee. A bit of cleaning, not much. Made and baked a small batch of chocolate chip cookies. Then a spanish lesson on the terraza off the bedroom.  The mandevilla vines are providing lots up color up here.

After about five minutes of study with flashcards, we saw Juanita and her daughter, waving hi to us, walking past down on the road. They live five houses south and we had not seen them for awhile, so we dashed down stairs and out the front door in time to say hi and meet their small dog. Juanita was wearing a most beautiful long dress. It was a white cotton with many levels of embroidery. She invited us to walk on to her house with her. She wanted to show us some of her plants, of which she has many fantastic ones. She also had two bird cages and one turtle which was meandering about in her paved front patio. She kept giving us plants to bring home. She had one giant yellow-orange stalk of flowers. Most amazing! After coming back home and spending an hour planting, we got back to the spanish lesson. This time Smij kitty wanted attention and gave us a great amount of pleasurable help. Gardi was napping downstairs.

From early morning til late afternoon, we heard most enjoyable spanish music playing. Probably emitted for and by the mechanic working on a truck, but a half block away on edge of the street. It's very typical to hear music from a radio or other playback gear in the wind, and nobody thinks that they might be playing too loud. So it helps to appreciate the same sort of stuff that your neighbors do. Usually it's cumbia, ranchero or norteño, and sometimes classical, so we have no complaints yet.

Carmen spent the afternoon sewing, making tie-backs for the curtains, and then napping. Dan spent his afternoon constructing a cantilevered platform for the 32” flatscreen TV, hung high off the shelf/closet unit in our bedroom, and getting in a nap also. Unhappily, we did not receive a single skype call today.

Since we finally have our Residente Temporal cards, monday morning Dan wanted to walk into town to see if we could get our INAPAM (National Institute for Seniors) cards, which will grant us dicounts on fares, entrance tickets and such. He got all the paperwork together while Carmen hung out two loads of laundry, totally filling our lines and getting all our jeans and other heavy items cleaned. The sky looked a bit iffy, but we took a chance. Seems that we must go back to the DIF (Integral Family Development) facility next tuesday with our papers.

On we walked to the bank ATM, to the hardware store for tubing to make three more curtain rods, to the paint store to ask why some of our house has the new paint going blotchy whitish (they said we must put another sealer coat on and then another coat of paint), to an office supply store to ask where we can dispose of a printer that needs repair that Dan is unable to fix and is now surplus for us, and finally to the flower market. No the true citronella plants have not been found yet. Couple blocks further and a motorcycle pulled up next to us. This happens amazingly often with vehicles, wanting directions. This rider happened to be our mailman. He had two magazines for us.

As we are now only three blocks from home, we passed a block from a dentist that Carmen wanted to try. We walked down the hill, rang the big bell at the door. The dentist had 45 free minutes. Okay, that should be enough time for a good cleaning. The IMSS dentist, where Carmen has gone for dental care this past year, just plain does not do much for the teeth. Not only did this dentist do a great job, but she speaks english! Seemed expensive, compared to the dentist Dan has been having cleanings with, but she did do a good exam too. With the type of fluoride treatment that was used, Carmen could eat or drink nothing for an hour. Also this dentist explained how to brush the teeth differently because of so many crowns.

Finally home and started some chicken and veggies cooking to which dumplings were added. Hanging the wet clothes out earlier was successful. The laundry was back inside before the rain started about 2:30p. Dan spent much of the rest of the day preparing all the paper work plus a letter to take to the aduana at the port of Veracruz tomorrow. This needs done to make our “temporarily imported” car legal for another three years.

Late in the day, after the rainstorm, Cosme stopped by with a large white anthurium, plus a Polka-dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya), which is green with pink or white dots and tiny pink flowers. We had run out of rotting leaves to plant the anthurium in and he was horrified when we had to plant it in soil. It will be a few days before we can give the plant what it wants. We will carry our rake and a plastic bag around a few streets and rake up fallen leaves.

Our orquideas pleasure us when they send out long stalks and flower -- they don't all do this at the same time and it's a surprise when all of a sudden another blooms forth.

Down, down and away towards the coast tuesday morning. Couple of quick stops first. One to see if our vacuum cleaner was repaired – no it can not be repaired, but it wasn't ready to pick up. Walmart was second for mosquito repellent refills for the plug-in gizmo, cat food & litter, and an mini addition to our cellphone minutes. We hardly ever use it, but it seemed wise to have it functional since we were taking a trip into the unknown.

We opted to take the autopista, the toll road that goes right into Veracruz As we progressed down from our elevation of 3000 to sea level, we passed thru a very green and lush landscape of rolling hills where lots of corn and sugar cane was growing. Closer to the coast the vegetation is more low jungle, with less visible agriculture. Our round trip to Veracruz was 158 miles, so about 90 minutes down and the same amount back, barring any unforeseen stops.

We were concerned about being able to find the aduana adminstrative office where we had to renew our car for staying here another three years, running concurrent with our new Residente Temporal permits. No address available, so we sort of went by what Frank could describe from years ago. Ah – thought we found it on Google maps – and so easy, it's right downtown opposite the wharf area! After driving into the port area, we could find nothing relating, so we asked a lady at a gated entry. Seems it had been moved since Frank was last there. She told us to go left on the next road and follow the road over a bridge and past a water company and the next turn would be what we were looking for. We drove for some time, finding no water company, but there, finally, was the main entrance to the port. At that gate the attendant told us to turn around and continue on down the road we had been on, just past a sewage plant (aguas residuales are treated there).

The next turn again looked like the right place, so in we turned. The guard said yes, just park in the lot and go to the last office in the modern new structure. Confusing. The actual “last” office seemed to be in a secured area. Again Dan asked where we needed to be – assuming we were in the wrong place again. But no, we only had to walk back a couple doors and talk to the lady in charge of admittance to the facility. Whew, we made it, and it was not all that difficult, thanks to Dan's understanding of spanish. Oops! Apparently there are very few people at this port's office trying to renew their TIP (temporary importation permit). The lady had to make several calls to find out how to process our request. She had us fill out and sign in a registry book. She then gave us visitor badges which allowed us into the next building. She kept some of our documentation, which made us a bit nervous. Must say – everyone we encountered here was extremely pleasant and helpful!

We were escorted to another office upstairs. Here were four ladies. Only one knew what to do with us. The others just sat there and ate candy – a meringue that looked scrumptious. Yes, to her surprise, all the papers we needed were there in the packet, plus we had the extra copies needed. Dan is so great about researching everything as thoroughly as possible. Still – you never know. Upon Claudia's approval, we were escorted to the final office in the building, the buzon (mail room). Here the clerk checked all the papers again, stamped everything and informed us that everything was correct and one of the copies would now be sent to Mexico City. He returned the other stamped copy to us as proof of submission. From there we would, presumably, receive notification later that all was in order.. When? Who knows? While we stood in the office a hard hard rainstorm passed over.

We are now relieved of the tension from this morning's searching thru a strange city. Sat in the car and drank some water and ate our morning donut. On the way back, Dan decided to take the drive thru the city instead of the more direct route. We did see the beach and ocean, plus the historic downtown. The massive well-cared for buildings are the pinks and yellows with a spanish/caribbean flare. Very busy streets, being about noon. After a few tries we found the main route out of the city. This is Mexico's largest, oldest and most significant port. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veracruz,_Veracruz

On our way out of the city we saw a Little Caesars pizza restaurant. Stopped, ordered a deal which included one to go. The clerk gave us one. Dan understood it was the one to go and a fresh one would be served to us for there shortly. Meanwhile many pizzas left the kitchen. Finally we decided something was wrong. We opened the box we had to start in on that and found it not cut. Hmmm, must be they do not cut the ones to-go. Dan took it back to the counter and found that he had misunderstood. They gave us two fresh pizzas, both cut into wedges, and we ate a bit and got back into the car with Carmen driving for the first time today. Dan was very thankful that he got some relief from being behind the wheel and could stretch out. We had just remarked that we'd be home shortly, when Dan suggested rather strongly that we get off the thruway and take the local road. No, Carmen preferred to stay on the autopista until we could get off in Córdoba near Home Depot. Carmen doesn't like driving in traffic if she can help it.

She did remark that there were suddenly a lot of trucks and they seemed to be slowing down though. Well they were slowing down all right! To a dead stop! Here we were just beyond the last exit before Córdoba, and were stopped with almost no cars and hundreds of trucks, bumper to bumper. Saw a couple small trucks and cars drive across the rough median, which hours later we finally checked out, but felt we might get stuck in the mud, so stayed in line. About once an hour for the next SEVEN HOURS we were able to drive forward for a distance of a truck or two, no more! While here there were two torrential rain storms. It meant closing the windows and suffering great amount of sticky heat. What could be holding us up? Heard no sirens. Finally a couple ladies walked by, going back to their car, with food. Dan asked if they knew the cause of the traffic jam. Yes, they did know. It was some group manifestación, a group action trying to prove a point. There was a continual flow of people walking past selling treats – you know – those deep fried goodies, dried bananas. a few with beverages. Luckily we had that extra pizza and a large bottle of sidral (apple soda pop) which was part of the “buy 2” purchase deal. Also had a few cookies and a small bottle of water. Though we rarely drink soda pop, it was wet, and the sun would have been much hotter, but thankfully, there were many clouds.

As darkness came on, the air started cooling. We had no blankets or warmer clothing and started to now worry about that situation. Also, all the truck drivers were getting out of their trucks to pee. Not so simple for Carmen. Much longer and it would have happened though. About nine o'clock both lanes started moving slowly. Carmen told Dan, back in the driver's seat, to quickly change lanes so that we would be in the right hand lane when the first available exit came up. Dan got half way over when a dead stop in traffic occurred, with us straddling both lanes and unable to move. Now we were in a pickle! If left lane moved and the right did not, we would be caught blocking both lanes. Come 9:30 both lanes started moving, though the left moved first. People behind us started tooting horns before the right lane moved enough for us to finish our move into the that lane. Now you understand, the windows are steamed up and the rain is coming down in this pitch darkness, with tail lights blinding us. As we drove a bit further, we discovered why we had been able to move a wee bit now and then. We thought a couple vehicles were being let through, but no, there was a large pull off on the right and trucks were pulling in there to sit out the wait, thus leaving a space to be moved up into.

We have never been so glad to get off from a highway and have no desire to get back into our car for a while! We had wondered what it was like for those folks who got caught up in one of these traffic stops. Now we know! If onlys. If we had not taken the tour through the city. If only we had not stopped for the pizza. Dan's “if only” is – if only Carmen had taken one of those exits he wanted. Well, would we have wanted to miss this new adventure? YES!

There were good times in our long wait. We were forced to just sit and relax and we had nothing with us to read. We both had naps. At one time we were parked next to a field of long grasses with butterflies fluttering about. The sky was fantastic with such a variety of clouds and colors, when not raining. Even the huge rain drops were intriguing as they landed on the windshield and ran down it, but the din of the drops on the roof was almost deafening at times. We inched past a tent of sorts where someone must be living or storing stuff. Across the highway were some chickens pecking for yummies and a long-necked white goose strutting about. The tree varieties across the hills and valleys were interesting, and yes the birds were singing, announcing each time when the rain had stopped! The big plus – we had each other to be with and talk to. Everyone needs a time like this on occasion.

During the hours in the car, we attempted to find news on the radio to explain what was going on, to no avail. The next day's newspaper revealed all. A year ago, a bridge on the federal highway thru Coscomatepec, a town 20 miles north, washed out. The residents there have had to detour around the spot, and were getting fed up with the lack of action repairing the bridge. More than a thousand of them traveled down south tuesday morning, and started a manifestación that blocked the autopista at the toll plaza at Fortín at about 8:30am. They also blocked the free route to Orizaba, at the intersection a few blocks west of our home. The result was no east-west traffic thru the entire region for 11 hours. Late in the evening a representative of the federal transpo department signed an accord with the group, promising that repairs would start on the bridge next monday. At 9:30pm the blockade was lifted, letting the 20km of stopped vehicles, in both directions, to move. Apparently, vehicles were still crawling thru the toll plaza at 2am, as it took over three hours to clear out the 12+ miles of stopped rigs. We were fortunate to have been able to get off at Córdoba when we did. Turns out that our extra time in Veracruz didn't result in getting stopped on the highway, as we would have been just as surely caught, just a few miles further along had we gotten out of the city earlier.

Needless to say, we slept in wednesday morning. Work was done on filling, sanding & staining the upstairs TV shelf, curtain tie-backs were put in place, bug spray was applied about the place. A day of odds and ends. About noon the city crew arrived. All the sand they had left on the road to continue with cement work, had washed down the road with the torrential rains that happened the past few nights. They worked for a couple hours and ran out of supplies and left for today so have to return, tomorrow?. Still wondering if they plan to rebuild the stairs on the sidewalk that they tore out for repairing a water pipe.

Friday we had another one of our whirlwind days. Did many little chores, leaving home early with the car. Drove into Fortín where we went to the Banamex bank to get some pesos. Since our present auto insurance (purchased in the US when we crossed the border last september) expires in a few weeks, we are shopping for a replacement policy. Santander bank offers it's autocompara service with multiple insurers, so we stopped there to give them our info and will return for the quotes next tuesday. Could have done this online except the website doesn't recognize our model Ford. Drove a few blocks more to drop off the printer that Dan can't make get past an error message—if they can fix it they can perhaps resell it. Next stopped at the city flower market. The lady there thought she might have the citronella plants by saturday. Across the street for gasoline. Next stop was to pick up our vacuum cleaner that apparently can not be repaired here, due to Hoover not having repair or parts service in this country. Next vacuum we buy will be made in Mexico, probably a Koblenz.

Now for a fun stop. Visited Dr. Soley, the dental surgeon who did the work on Carmen's teeth. He had asked to borrow some books to read to practice his english. We took him four all different types of stories and writing. He can tell us which one he likes best and we will then know what to take to him next time. He had no patient at the time we were there, so we spent an hour chatting. He always likes to chat about his and our lives in general. Next a visit to IMSS to get Dan's consultorio assignment corrected. He was supposedly changed to the same as Carmen's, consultorio 5, last April, but when there this past month the doctor could not get Dan's file to come up. We had to take our paper work to two different offices, but did in fact get it straightened out.

Now a stop at the CarneMart, a commercial meat market where all the packages are larger and cheaper than other stores, packaged for institutional use. We found arrachera (a marinaded beef flank) and a block of chopped pork, all prepped for stir-fry type use. This got repackaged into seven meals for us, then refrozen. Cost us US$1.43 per a meal for the two of us, or 72 cents each. Home Depot next. This is a good place for a nice clean modern toilet stop. Bought two cuna de moises (“Moses' cradle,” we know this as peace lily), a cyclamen, a romero (rosemary) herb plant, a nerve plant which had actually five plants in one pot, plus an Aloe vera which is now planted inside the house in a long narrow ceramic planter that will later also hold some cactus and succulents. Yes, also purchased some parts for projects and hardware for the installation of the upstairs TV.

Finally to the Soriana grocery store on the east side of Córdoba. We discovered that the store brand of oatmeal is better than other avena we have purchased here. Dan found some pepitas (dried pumpkin seeds), and we picked up some odds & ends we had been looking for without earlier success, like food coloring. Dr. Soley had talked about loving pancakes, with syrup, so Carmen bought some syrup to go with pancakes for breakfast tomorrow morning (and some cajeta, caramel cream made from cooked goat's milk, for Dan) – we usually just use honey or jam.. Just beyond the check-out counters, there are a variety of fast food take out facilities. We had seen the chinese foods last time here that had looked really fresh and good. So at the KungFu shop, we each selected three entrees plus rice for 60 pesos each, or US$4.65. This is giving us at least four days meals, such huge servings we got! Finally home!

The end of the week was filled with laundry, sewing, installing upstairs television, only to have the computer we were interfacing there fail after doing an online update. Gardi had a great day friday. Eight children, perhaps a class with a woman monitoring them, stopped at our front gate and Gardi did his best to entertain them. Next a man with his small boy stopped at the north end of our front porch. They spent a long time with Gardi, petting and talking to him thru the fence as he rolled around and purred for them. Our shy Smij cat has actually let a few people see her when she's outside the building, as she is getting greater confidence that our yard keeps others (dogs, vehicles, rambunctious kids, etc) out unless we choose to let them in. Previously she's run inside when there was any passing activity of any sort.

Still getting hard rainstorms with much rolling thunder and sudden temperature drops from eighty – five to seventy degrees, in the evening, though the plastic panels we installed outside the windows, have stopped the rain from blowing inside. Also the large gutter out back is doing a marvelous job of keeping a lot of rainwater off of our bedroom level deck. Oh, when we got back from our travels friday, our electricity was out. After waiting 'til nearly dark, Dan found an emergency number in the phone book and dialed it, using the cellphone. Of course he was put on hold for some time. Finally gave his message – well he got his name and address out, when the cell phone that we had minimally charged but two days before, told him he had no time left. After another hour of reading 'til nearly too dark, we walked down the street and found Carlos, who lives but two buildings down, and asked if he had electricity. No, the power lines further south were being worked on. We stood there and chatted for awhile, during which time he invited us to his church, which is non-catholic. Dan was also invited to his house for a men's church group once a week. Women also have get-togethers. He assured us that if we attended, we would be getting lots of dinner invitations from all the new friends. Perhaps this might happen, IF Carmen ever learns to understand spanish. Who knows what tomorrow may bring?